Any help or thoughts would be much appreciated. I know the main panel has a Bonded neutral. That hot-ground is what Iâm worried about â shouldnât that also be 254V? Not a big deal really, since that by itself should not cause a hot-skin condition or damage anything. I appreciate the knowledge that you bring to this site and have an interest in ground neutral bonding and the Edison plug discussed in your article. Since hurricane Florence rolled through our mosquito population has exploded and I don’t tolerate their bites very well. GREAT KNOWLEDGE. Please check with the inverter manufacturer for the best way to do this. It does sound like your inverter needs to have its neutral bonded to ground, but I’m going to contact Outback to be sure. Any other info would be appreciated. And mark it RV use right unbounded left. Just be sure to mark this plug specifically for its intended purpose. That would take almost 12 hours so I decided to install a Bosch level 2 charging system which does the job in under 4 hours. How. Would grounding my panel to the chasis need to be done if I have the Edison plug on the generator? Easy to empty gas from tank and carb for storage. The gold standard would be to create the G-N bond inside of the generator itself. Thinking that I had the wrong leg, I switched the 5-15p from the black wire to the red wire. Should I Earth ground it to my truck and then to a ground stake OR install one of your N-G binding plugs? The decision was made that if needed, we would ground it, but not bond the earth to the neutral â as we didnât really have time to test that, and we should be able to trust the hire company who use it as-is in similar situations all the time. This is without grounding my generator grounding stud. see some fault protection, see some conflicting info on whether GFCI and circuit breakers, work as planned in this modeâ¦..is neutral and ground reversal in a cord or device a problem, here too? Where did you purchase the neutral/ground bonding plug? Your thoughts, please? I recently ordered a Champion 7500/9500 genset. Vous trouverez ici des techniques, des tests de matériel, des coins de pêche, des reportages, des coups de gueule et des digressions dont j’ai le secret… So it looks like I have to figure out a way to either un-bond it, or install something that would switch the neutral. I want to be able power my home high efficiency gas boiler during a power outage. But this lifted ground will eliminate the unbalanced neutral currents causing the GFCI to trip. Said they couldn’t tell me how to ubound the nutural. Thanks. All house power systems have a ground rod to tie the safety ground to the earth, so a separate earth ground rod for the generator is not required. Upon my disappointment when I came home and tried a trial run using my 30 amp inlet box and starting the Voltmaster XCR105, I immediately began getting a trip on the GFI on the main panel which is full GFI protected. Is this a problem if I use this generator with my trailer? I’ve got to run out and get some gas, and then I’m going to fire up my Champion 3500 watt inverter and test the plug on it. The problem is that NONE of the generator manufacturers will support any of my NSZ articles by loaning me any of their generators to try out. The generators calmed way down and seemed to regulate. I have a Generac XP8000E Professional Series generator, Model 005708-0 XP8000E. This was done by RVIA code so that plugging your RV into a reversed polarity outlet (swapped Hot and Neutral) wouldn’t cause a hot skin condition. I’ve seen this exact problem with another EF6300iSDE generator. At home, I plug the trailer into a 110 GFI outlet to power my freezers. 2) Also, why is there not a shock hazard created by bonding 60v neutrals to equipment grounds in RVs or other contexts? This generator delivers 6,500 Running Watts and 8,125 Starting Watts of power. This one is just as good - if not better. Some inverters donât make true floating AC, and have a 60/60 output. Since the generator only has 20 amp “outlet-style” plugs on it for AC connection purposes, I’m going to use an appropriate gauge extension cord, retrofitted with two male ends, to make this connection between the generator and an outdoor-style plug so I can do the ‘plug and play’ style of connecting the generator, given that it’s portable. If so, then it needs to comply with RVIA wiring standards. #2 travel trailers, RVs and boats require it, in most cases. Thanks. If I plug the Generator into my bonded transfer switch will I have 120volts to my panel? My 5000 watt Coleman generator (1999 vintage) did NOT have a neutral to ground bond as it came from the factory. Well, the electricity company didnât end up cutting off our power until later in the day, so we didnât need the generator at all! I wanted to update everyone and let you know what I’ve decided to do in my situation. I plan on taking an appropriate gauge extension cord (and length) and will be cutting the female plug end off and hardwiring it to the “AC In/GEN” connection point in the MMP (Magnum Mini Panel), which has a dedicated AC In circuit breaker to provide protection and a switch. What about using a regular extension cord and plugging a G-N Bond plug into the GFI inside the RV itself? I don’t have an RV but do have a boat that has this problem. I unplugged the RV from the generator and immediately got an âOPEN GROUNDâ on the tester still plugged into the generator. Once that’s completed no need for a ground rod correct? I just don’t know for sure since I’ve never seen or hooked up a Powerhouse generator. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Or you could just use my G-N bonding plug if need be. One of the outlets is on the back wall of the 5th wheel while the other outlet and two light fixtures are in a slide out. Only small problem is side service cover gasket is cheap garbage, tore first time opened, called about parts and gasket is part of side cover, and they replaced.So they are good on parts. I’ve seen a number of trailers like this that had their circuit breaker panel Neutral-Ground bonded by the builders. My transfer switch is an older Generac Model 1276. So no, I don’t think a bonding plug would do any good for you. Perhaps it has a problem. I have been doing this for some time with no Problem, am I doing this correctly?? It has been working fine no problems but if it’s true that the generator is bonded and the panel is bonded how is it working? Thanks very much for your help to the community of which I now find myself a sudden member! So, with the generator sitting on dry garage floor, on it’s rubber wheels and plastic legs, does the “neutral attached to the frame” in the generator actually create a second neutral to ground connection? They’re confusing earth ground with bonding. after multiple cloudy days. This was the instruction book for the generator. Could I just use the ground input on my Honda generator and attach a grounding rod kit? A fridge will use anywhere from 100 to 400 watts depending on size, a large fridge will use about 180 watts or 1575 kWh annually. I’m not comfortable running it this way, but it seems that’s the only way it can handle the loads. Since that seemed to be an issue I have tried to find a potential problem in my RV wiih no joy. When I plug in my bonding plug it trips the generator’s GFI. I told him of my situation with connecting the 6300 to my house via and interlock kit with a two pole breaker in my panel, and NOT using a transfer switch. My Generac is a 7550 running watts and a 13500 surge. If so, that should already do a G-N bond when in “Generator” position. I just want to reiterate that my unit is 7550 running/13500 surge. Being an electrician for nearly 30-years. Can I use the NG bond plug to correct this problem? Since then we have been using extension cords when needed. Great information..I think I finally understand this stuff thanks to you. I converted both units to natural gas. Mike, I am installing a 4000 Watt Pure Sine Inverter Charger 12 Volt Model #: picoglf40w12v120v (http://www.theinverterstore.com/4000-watt-12-volt-pure-sine-inverter-charger.html) in a 2008 Dodge 3500 Sprinter van to run 120 VAC electrical appliances for our shaved ice business. I created the N-G bond adapter as you suggested, but realized I still do not have a fault path to ground. 3. From neutral to ground I have 0 volts and hot to ground is 127 volts. In a word, this is a big N-O. That’s how it’s supposed to work, but Honda and Yamaha won’t discuss this information with consumers. After the 2 min 16 sec delay built into the SurgeGuard, power was supplied to the RV and the indicator lights on the SurgeGuard were normal (no faults indicated LINE 1&2 illuminated steady). Thank you for your guidance . Again, I have not actually run generator or inverter power to my panel to see what happens, but a couple different websites I saw basically claime tha you cannot bond N-G for inverters or generators with a 60-0-60v output. Wow – Read everyone of these and I am even more confused. I am trying to get my Honda EU3000 generator to power up the motorhome for a few items. So -I assume the neutral to ground bond has to be at the generator. (Are you with me so far?) Those that provided the bond seemed to be exclusively models sold for running power tools on job sites. But you really need to confirm this with an electrician if possible. Then plug in a 3-light outlet tester to see if it looks OK. At that point, remove the 3-light tester and plug in your RV shore power plug. I have checked the voltage output at the generator and I have found 63 volts on the (neutral) to ground and 64 volts on the (hot) to ground connection on the receptacle. So it’s always best to get confirmation from your local electrical inspector before doing any wiring project. It would be like using a generator to run a light for your tent. The generator has a floating neutral which is what is needed since my elec panel is bonded neutral. My question for you is: would I put one of the generator-only G-N bonding plugs in one of the two generators or should I put one in each of the generators as they both are wired into the 30 amp parallel kit? Lot’s of things wrong with your plan. If you add a G-N bond and don’t use a ground rod, you’ll be safe as long as you don’t distributed power to multiple locations. You only need to G-N bond one of your generators in a parallel hookup. I plugged in an extension cord and wired it into my furnace with the hot, neutral and ground wiring. Do I still need the GN bonded plug regardless? Curious about the error codes while using the generator. I’ll be telling everyone about this article as I belong to several grooming forums…also I’m buying your book now. Just to be safe I would start up the generator without anything plugged in, then plug in the G-N bonding plug. So here’s your first scenario. As far as damage to your generator, I’ve had dozens (maybe hundreds) of readers use my little bonding plug without any problems. Just be sure you’re bonding the ground and neutral screws in the plug. The transfer switch has a ground and neutral wire that requires attachment to the main panel neutral and ground connections. Thanks! Basically, the receptacle shows the typical 60v on both legs relative to the receptacle ground and 120 across the legs. There’s lots of good reasons for this, most specifically that it’s an NEC and RVIA code requiment that the safety ground wire never carries any load current, and there can be only one Ground-To-Neutral bonding point in any distributed electrical system in the USA. I plan on running 12 or 10 ga ext cord. But I’d rather put my 50 amp EMS in place of the surge protector in that setup. However, to prevent this from happening again, try and work out what caused them to trip or blow before restarting the generator. However, if you can have Ryobi contact me, I’ll be glad to discuss this G-N bonding plug with their engineering department at length. I’ll get back to you next week. I’ve already confirmed this with the engineering department at Progressive Industries as well as tech support at Honda Generators. Why the generator makes it show fault I dont know, maybe not clean enough power, but any way that is now not a problem I guess. Mike, I got around to hooking up my Honda EU3000is to my main house electrical panel. Do you have any schematics for the Volt masters to make floating neutral? If I am always using the 50amp receptacle, will this also be bonded if I use the bonding plug in the 110 receptacle? Hot-ground 120V And if your RV’s on-board generator is powering your RV via it’s own transfer switch, then the G-N bond is created by that transfer switch. I addition to a generator I also bought and filled up six Blitz cans of gasoline, spare oil for the generator, extra generator extension cord, and a master disconnect for his breaker panel. My display after plugging in will show NO LOAD. With the generator off, use a digital voltmeter to check the resistance (ohms) between the neutral and ground contacts in the output receptacle. I have a Honda EU 5000 generator running of the 30amp connection. 1. Thanks for the response. Thanks so much. This panel allows you to use a generator with the neutral either bonded or non-bonded. So now you see the industry confusion. Thanks again Mike. has a N-to-G bond). I have an idea what this might be, but need to confirm a few things with you first. I have an Onan 10kw Diesel Generator hooked to a Kraus & Naimer C42 Manual Transfer Switch (Gen/OFF/OFF/Shore) for Shore/Gen power to an enclosed Telco equipment shelter (including Coleman Mack AC, florescent lights, fan, 8 non-GFCI outlets). do I need to make 2 plugs one for each generator or will one plug do the trick. Payed $500 for mine at Scotty’s home supply here in Florida. to confirm that no, they are definitely not bonded. Here’s what I do to backfeed my home. Just plug it in and start it up…. Initially when I had my 2002 residence setup, I had a gentran transfer switch setup with a 30 amp inlet. Excellent. If I want the generator N/G bonded I simply put in this plug and all the receptacles on the generator are bonded. The best I can do is to give oyu the contact phone for their distributor. I should have done this first. At 120 volts on the pos pole? All of the outlets are wired correctly. However, it would be nice to have that EMS functionality when powered by genset. Now, IF, for whatever reason I would need to take the genset to a remote site for portable power with it being setup with the floating neutral ground, my question is will using the $2 G-N bonding plug make the genset alright to use on a remote site or skip the $2 G-N bonding plug and use a grounding rod and the grounding lug on the genset? That shouldn’t be a problem because I do not have any multiwire or 240v circuits. If you were to use this “floated neutral” generator on an RV, then you’ll need to re-install the G-N bonding strap. If that checks OK (which it will if you’ve wired the G-N bonding plug correctly), then plug your boat shore power line into it and check the EMS for proper polarity indication. I have a HONDA EU3000IS that I am wanting to hook up to my tiny house built on a flatbed trailer. This is why Honda told me to plug the A/C unit into its own twist lock receptacle. Thanks. Thanks for your time, this has been an eye opening lesson in using a generator to power my travel trailer. Any ideas? Sorry Mike, I didn’t read your evaluation correctly you mentioned under 10kw, not 6kw. Very informative site… I just purchased a Voltmaster XCR105 9,500 watt Portable generator to replace my 12 Year old Generac Storm Chaser 5500 Watt portable Generator. after reading all this and the comments, I discovered the webpage I was looking for (which I still actually had bookmarked, but neglected to search my bookmarks 1st). However, be aware that the recommended gauges for for 100 ft runs from the panel to the outlet. I connect it to a camp that is wired for lighting, toaster, radio, etc. This generator delivers 6,500 Running Watts and 8,125 Starting Watts of power. Can I use a jumper wire to the generator ground stud to one of my metal electrical boxes as a ground or should I install a grounding rod?